Crucial Laptop Ram For Mac

1. Crucial Computer
2. Apple

If this is your first time installing a Crucial SSD in your Mac system, there’s no need to fear – the process is easy and straightforward. It’ll take some time, but your computer will be radically faster when you’re done! Before you begin, use our to verify that the SSD you purchased is compatible with your computer, as not all Mac systems are upgradeable. Once you’ve done that, you’re ready to get started. Part 1: Prepare.

If this is your first time installing a Crucial SSD in your Mac system, there’s no need to fear – the process is easy and straightforward. Menu Crucial Community. (RAM) is the pool of resources your system uses to do almost everything. Every time you move your mouse, type a message, listen to music, play a game or go.

Gather supplies You’ll need your Crucial SSD, a screwdriver, your Mac system’s owner’s manual (which will specify the type of screwdriver you need), and a (sold separately). Additionally, if you’ll be installing into (a) a Mac Pro® system manufactured between 2006 and 2012 or (b) an iMac® from almost any year, you’ll need a because these systems have larger storage bays than other Mac computers. Set the spacer aside In the box with your SSD is a spacer (it looks like a black bracket). Set it aside for now – it won’t come into play until later in the process, and based on your type of Mac system, you may not even need it. Back up important files Before starting the install process, save any important files on your computer to a USB flash drive or external storage drive.

Connect the SSD to your Mac system Using a SATA-to-USB cable, attach one side to the SSD and the other end to your computer. When handling your SSD, try not to touch its gold connector pins with your fingers. Determine your version of Apple® OSX There are many versions of the Mac operating system (called OSX), and you need to determine which version you’re using.

Simply click on in the upper left corner of your screen, then click About this Mac which will display your version number. Here’s where to find the version number on the screen you’ll see:.

Format your SSD Before you can use your SSD, it needs to be initialized, partitioned, and formatted. These are technical words that mean the drive needs to get acquainted with your system.

To do this, you need to go into Disk Utility, which comes free with Mac systems. Access this by clicking on the storage drive on your desktop, then clicking on the Applications folder, then the Utilities folder, then Disk Utility. Alternatively, you can click on the Applications folder in your dock, then follow the additional steps noted above.

Once you’re in Disk Utility, you should see a message telling you that the SSD cannot be read by the computer. No need to fear – this is normal. Simply click on the Initialize button that appears in the message and your Crucial SSD should now be visible in Disk Utility. From here, follow the steps below that correspond to your version of OSX. Your version of OSX Your step-by-step instructions OSX El Capitan or newer (version 10.11 or higher) High Sierra may not detect your SSD automatically. See for additional support.

Highlight your SSD and click the Erase button. Type in a name for the new partition (this where you’ll save data on the drive and it’ll be the name for your SSD).

On the menu settings, verify that the partition is set to GUID Partition Table. Verify that the selected format defaults to Mac OS Extended (Journaled). Select Erase. The drive will now be partitioned, formatted, and ready for use. OSX Yosemite or earlier (version numbers less than 10.11) 1. Highlight your SSD and click the Partition tab.

Click on Options and verify that it's set to GUID Partition Table. Select Partition 1 if you want to use the entire SSD as a single partition (if you don’t know what a partition is, select this option). You’ll now have the opportunity to give your SSD a name. Verify that the selected format defaults to Mac OS Extended (Journaled). Select Partition.

The drive will now be partitioned, formatted, and ready for use. Your SSD should now be visible with the new name you gave it. Now you’re ready to copy everything on your Mac’s existing drive to your new SSD. That way, when you install the SSD, your data will be on it and everything will be the same, but significantly faster. Part 2: Copy There are two methods for copying your data on a Mac system, and you’ll need to follow the method designed for your version of OSX. Note: Both methods will only clone a Mac partition. To see how to clone a bootcamp Windows® partition, see. (If you don’t know what a bootcamp Windows partition is, no need to worry – just use the method below that matches your OS.) OSX El Capitan or newer (version 10.11 or higher): How to copy data to a Crucial SSD.

Shut down your system. Once your screen has powered off, press your system’s power button then immediately press and hold the Command and R keys to reboot your Mac and have it go to a special window called OSX Utilities. You’ll now see several applications. Select Disk Utility, then Continue. On the left side of the Disk Utility window, you’ll see an External section that indicates any external storage drives attached to your Mac. Since your Crucial SSD is plugged in via the SATA-to-USB cable, it should appear here.

Underneath the name of your Crucial SSD, you should see the partition you named when you formatted your drive. Click on this partition to highlight it.

Now click on the Edit menu in the upper left corner of your screen and select the Restore. In the dropdown menu that appears, select the name of your existing drive's partition (if it doesn’t automatically appear as the default choice). You can verify that you selected the right partition by looking under the Internal section on the left navigation because your existing drive is inside your Mac and the existing drive’s partition will appear here.

Now click Restore, which will start the process of restoring (“copying”) your data from your existing storage drive to your new SSD. Reward yourself with a beverage of choice. It’ll take a while for everything to copy.

Leave your computer for a while and go do something fun!. Once everything has copied over, click Done. The partition you named on your Crucial SSD should now have the same name as the partition on the existing drive you copied over. Now it’s time to shut down your system and physically install the SSD. You’re over halfway done! OSX Yosemite or earlier (version numbers less than 10.11): How to copy data to a Crucial SSD. Important note prior to starting this process: If you use Apple’s FileVault program for encryption, you’ll need to turn it off and decrypt your system’s existing storage drive before following the steps below.

Once you’ve physically installed your new Crucial SSD, you can then turn FileVault back on. If you don’t know what FileVault is, no need to worry. Shut down your system. Once your screen has powered off, press your system’s power button then immediately press and hold the Option button on your keyboard to reboot your Mac and have it go to a special window called Boot Manager. From here, select Recovery-10.x.

You’ll now see several applications. Select Disk Utility, then Continue. Disk Utility will now ask you to select the partition you want to copy to your new SSD. Simply select the main partition located underneath your existing storage drive. It should be easy to find this because of how your drives and their associated partitions appear onscreen.

The top-left section displays the storage drive(s) inside your computer and the partitions on each one. All of these should have a gray icon next to them, indicating they’re physically installed in your system.

Select the partition for your existing storage drive, which will display a new set of options on the right side of the window. Select the Restore. Now you want to tell Disk Utility which partition you want it to restore (“copy”) to your new Crucial SSD.

Click and drag the partition you just selected to the Source field (if it doesn’t automatically appear here). Now it’s time to tell Disk Utility where to copy your data. This is called selecting your “destination” drive and you want to select the partition you named on your Crucial SSD when you formatted it. This is easy to find because in the left column is a divider line and below this is a list of all the external drive(s) that are plugged into your Mac and each drive’s associated partitions.

Since your Crucial SSD is plugged in via the SATA-to-USB cable, it should appear in this section and have an orange icon next to it. Click and drag the SSD’s partition to the Destination. Click the Restore button, which triggers the start of the data copying process. Note that in some older versions of OSX, you might see a checkbox where you will need to select Erase Destination before Disk Utility will allow you to copy your data. If you see this checkbox, just select it to proceed.

Reward yourself with a beverage of choice. It’ll take a while for everything to copy. Leave your computer for a bit and go do something fun!. Once your data has finished copying, verify that everything has copied correctly.

To do this, repeat Step 1 in this process to go into Boot Manager. From here, you should now see multiple drives to boot from – some of which have the same names. This is normal because when you copied over your existing drive to your new SSD, the SSD received the same name as your existing drive’s partition, but the SSD should appear here with an orange icon above it, indicating that it’s plugged into your Mac via the USB cable. Simply select the SSD to have your system boot from it.

Everything should now look like your old setup, except it will be faster. Now it’s time to shut your system back down and get ready to physically install the SSD.

You’re over halfway done! Part 3: Install The physical installation process varies based on the type of Mac system you have, so follow the step-by-step process for your Mac using our. How a memory upgrade benefits you: Memory (RAM) is the pool of resources your system uses to do almost everything. Every time you move your mouse, type a message, listen to music, play a game or go online, you’re using memory. This is why upgrading your memory (adding more GB) is a great compliment to your new SSD.

The SSD allows you to quickly open and save things, and more memory allows you to work seamlessly once things are open. Upgrading your system’s memory is even easier than installing an SSD and can be done in as little as 5 minutes. Now that you’re an expert SSD installer, watch out!

Your friends and family might just start asking you to do their installs ©2017 Micron Technology, Inc. All rights reserved. Information, products, and/or specifications are subject to change without notice.

Neither Crucial nor Micron Technology, Inc. Is responsible for omissions or errors in typography or photography. Micron, the Micron logo, Crucial, and the Crucial logo are trademarks or registered trademarks of Micron Technology, Inc. Mac is a trademark of Apple Inc., registered in the U.S. And other countries. Windows is either a registered trademark or trademark of Microsoft Corporation in the United States and/or other countries.

All other trademarks are the property of their respective owners. Your step by step guide is very good.

Followed it and all sorted - to a point but have a new issue to overcome Installed 512 GB M4 on 17' MacBook Pro Early 2011 in primary drive bay. Initialized it with 1 partition GUID Left the drive on overnight with computer in option mode to let garbage collection do it's job. Then followed steps above to clone ssd from my HDD. Mac running off ssd and HDD now a data drive only. Question now, will garbage collection keep doing it's job? If yes, will it only do this when MacBook Pro is in sleep mode? Secondly will the ssd work aid installed in the optibay?

My optibay does support 6GB/s. The short and simple answers to your questions are: Yes. To give you a bit more detail, Garbage Collection automatically starts whenever the SSD is idle, and there is no action required from you to trigger it, other than to simply leave the SSD alone. Since Garbage Collection requires the SSD to be completely idle, the easiest way to 'trick it' into starting is to configure your Mac to to not turn off power to the HDD/SSD whenever it can, and then put the system into Sleep Mode. To change the power settings, go to the Energy Saver settings in your System Preferences, and uncheck the box next to 'Put hard disks to sleep whenever possible'. That will stop your Mac from powering off the SSD in Sleep Mode, and Garbage Collection will be able to keep up with your daily drive usage. Lastly, yes, the SSD should work in the optibay, but you will need an adapter to mount it in the bay and connect it properly.

We do not carry such an adapter at this time, and unfortunately are not able to recmmend any particular brand or model. Hello NeilB, The hardware encryption on the M5500 is always operating, however, it is not always password protected to the point it locks out unauthorized access. We are at this time not aware of a software tool for Mac that provides this functionality integrated with the SED feature.

In other words, if you need your data to be protected by encryption that keeps unauthorized users from accessing the drive, you will need to keep FIle Vault on. The TKB Article has more information on the SED ability of the M500 and on how the encryption works, if you are interested in learning more about it. Really good and easy to follow guide! A couple of gotchas are worth mentioning when cloning your drive: The Carbon Copy Cloner website has some useful hints on applications that behave differently, DropBox for example, when you have cloned your drive. It's also worth mentioning, that Office 2011 for Mac will ask you to reenter your product key when running off the cloned disk, and that you may not be able to do that, since the key is already registered on 'another' computer a.k.a.

The original disk. I had problems booting from the cloned drive initially, when it was still attached via USB to my Macbook Pro.

Switching to a different USB port on the Mac solved that.Moderator note: Removed URL to third-party product, per. I have an M500 960GB SSD that will not complete a clone without I/O failures. This is on a MacBook Pro running 10.8.5. It fails consistently with Disk Utility and SuperDuper.

The source HD has been verified. The SSD is on an external USB connection. The original SSD failed completely at one point and was replaced by Crucial, but it has the same problem with I/O errors. The SSD has been given days for garbage collection with no improvement.

The drive was purchased from an authorized distributor, but the 30 day return window has now expired while I've tried relentlessly to get it to work. Now I'm left with a $600 brick. Hi tobycorgi, First of all I'm sorry to hear that you're having problems with cloning your new SSD. Have you tried installing the SSD internally and doing a fresh install?

The reason I ask is that this would be the best way to check if it's a problem with the SSD or a problem when trying to clone only. It could be a problem with the cable you're using for the clone or the USB slot/slots when trying the clone. The best way for us to check if there is a fault is for you to try it internally to see if you're having the same issues. Please let us know how it goes and we can take it from there. The System Report (OSX 10.8.5) shows a Recovery HD partition that does not appear (is hidden) in Disk Utility. Will the process outlined above clone the Recovery partition?

If the answer is no, can you install the Recovery HD partition on a SSD using Recovery Disk Assistant? If so please describe the complete process of cloning the drive with the Recovery HD partition. Apple's is typically ambiguous and makes me nervous, with all the references to 'Internet' installs. There is also this statement: 'The Recovery Disk Assistant erases all data on the external drive you select when creating the Recovery Disk. You should either backup your data before running the Recovery Disk Assistant, or create a new partition on your external drive.' , which leads me to believe that the Recovery partition may need to be created first. Disk0s1: Capacity: 209.7 MB (209,715,200 bytes) BSD Name: disk0s1 Content: EFI Macintosh HD: Capacity: 499.25 GB (499,248,103,424 bytes) Available: 334.85 GB (334,851,190,784 bytes) Writable: Yes File System: Journaled HFS+ BSD Name: disk0s2 Mount Point: / Content: AppleHFS Volume UUID: CC3CEB48-3319-3B5A-ABDD-AC49064F44FD Recovery HD: Capacity: 650 MB (650,002,432 bytes) BSD Name: disk0s3 Content: AppleBoot Volume UUID: BFF-3110-A0AE-EC.

I had the same issue. I ended up without a recovery HD after cloning as well. I could've reinstalled OS X from the App Store, which I understand recreates it. But instead, I installed OS X on an external drive (which I was planning on doing anyway, for troubleshooting), then used Disk Utility to add a small 1GB partition. I then cloned the Recovery HD from the external drive to the new partition I created. I now get the option to boot to it when I restart my MacBook with the option key down.

The only downside is that it mounts to my desktop along with my regular startup volume. Not a huge problem. Hope that helps. Hi I have been able to partician the crucial SSD to extended Journ via usb externally but when I am in restore menu and I follow the procedures for El captain video (I have sierra installed) it says to partician again and just hit restore but when I do that it fails from my currnet drive to ssd with the message beloe: Validating target. Avalidating source. Could not recognize '/dev/(null)' as an image file could not retrieve scan information- invalid argument operation failed. Is there anything wrong on my end as I can see both internal and external usb ssd drive?

Any help thanks.

QUOTE='metacritical'i personally like OCZ or corsair dominator, crucial is budget RAM markop2003 Crucial make an enthusiast line too. Both crucial and cosair are fine, chances are they both use the same chips, the only company i've heard of that uses distinctly different chips is Patriot. Crucial and Corsair both have budget and enthusiast RAM.

And yes I am pretty sure Corsair uses mostly (if not only) micron chips. Crucial is a division of Micron. So Crucial should be just as good, if not better than Corsair. Consider G.Skill as an option too. They make good RAM for almost any purpose. Hartsickdiscipl I was looking and waiting for someone to say this as I sifted through this thread.

I would go with G.Skill as well. After having used Kingston for (non gaming desktop), Corsair, OCZ, Crucial, I would definitely pick G.Skill over all of them. On top of that, most motherboards take G.Skill where as some AMD motherboards do not take anything else but a few including G.Skill.

This RAM brand has never disappointed in terms of adjusting timings and overclocking. I've had difficulty with OCZ in the past, despite following careful instructions. But I think it was more of a motherboard issue than anything. QUOTE='metacritical'i personally like OCZ or corsair dominator, crucial is budget RAM markop2003 Crucial make an enthusiast line too. Both crucial and cosair are fine, chances are they both use the same chips, the only company i've heard of that uses distinctly different chips is Patriot. Just as corsair have OEM's making their PSU's don't say that it's the 'same' hardware. The memorychips can be of a diffrent tier even if they are made in the same factory.

The chip's arn't set to a specific mhz, it's entirely up to the product seller to label the chip's, so even tho the same factory make the chip's a 1066mhz DDR2 memory could be very diffrent on two memory from diffrent companys. Even tho some of corsair's PSU's are derivated from sesonic s12 platform's via OEM they show diffrent meashurement's and capabilleties, some diffrency in the choose of higher quality component's resulting in a sligthly better product. Corsair does impress me again and again, they keep on building high end product's to a very resonable price, and their high end memory are considered to be probably the best out there, taking the lead and reaching the highest OC again and again. In this matter it would not make it a big deal, both crusial and corsair have diffrent type of memory and at diffrent prize. If they both had identical spec's i would get the cheapest of them.If they have the same specs and price i would choose the one i think's look better.If they have the same specs and price with equally good looking heatspreader's i'd get the corsair one. QUOTE='markop2003'QUOTE='metacritical'i personally like OCZ or corsair dominator, crucial is budget RAM swehunt Crucial make an enthusiast line too.

Both crucial and cosair are fine, chances are they both use the same chips, the only company i've heard of that uses distinctly different chips is Patriot. Just as corsair have OEM's making their PSU's don't say that it's the 'same' hardware. The memorychips can be of a diffrent tier even if they are made in the same factory. I don't mean same brand or same factory i mean exactly the same serial number.

Crucial Computer

I saw a review a couple years back just when dominator came out, they set it against several other company's and the reality is most of the companies used exactly the same chips and relied on a fancy heatsinks to achieve higher clocks rather than different chips (still the difference between these units was minimal, we're talking 50mhz or one less cycle on CAS). This is more akin to finding the exact same capacitors in two power supplies rather than them just being made in the same factory. QUOTE='swehunt' QUOTE='markop2003' Crucial make an enthusiast line too. Both crucial and cosair are fine, chances are they both use the same chips, the only company i've heard of that uses distinctly different chips is Patriot. Markop2003 Just as corsair have OEM's making their PSU's don't say that it's the 'same' hardware. The memorychips can be of a diffrent tier even if they are made in the same factory. I don't mean same brand or same factory i mean exactly the same serial number.

Apple

I saw a review a couple years back just when dominator came out, they set it against several other company's and the reality is most of the companies used exactly the same chips and relied on a fancy heatsinks to achieve higher clocks rather than different chips (still the difference between these units was minimal, we're talking 50mhz or one less cycle on CAS). This is more akin to finding the exact same capacitors in two power supplies rather than them just being made in the same factory. That's not what i were saying.:) In your post you only directed to this quote, in the whole post i made i explained the diffrence in two memorychips from the same maker. Theese memorychips is not predetermined with a frequency direct from the factory line, it's entirely up to the seller/produckt retailer to determin given spec's, this means that the same chip can do many diffrent frequencys @ diffrent latensy but not all are equally good, according to most review's the top tier corsair's seem to be the best you can buy because they seem to get the best tier of chips. So, even if it's the exsact chip they can and will run diffrently as an xmpl.Corsair test the chip as determin that the max speed it can run is 1635Mhz @ CL7 but sell it as a 1333mhz CL7 this would make a great memory as it can OC quite a bit, just as explained this may not be the case if you get a kingston memory they may have selled them as a 1600Mhz @ CL7. So the exsact chip does not matter, it's entierly up to the company making ram modules and not the chip maker.